UPdated vintage night stands

P1140876Found these two vintage night stands at a big rummage sale.

P1140877Both had quite a bit of damage to the tops, one was missing a knob and had two pretty deep burn marks; lots of ‘stickers’ to scrape off.  But they were well made with dovetail joined drawers and still very sturdy.  Nothing a lot of elbow grease can’t cure!

P1140892Lots of pretty detailing on the drawers and base to distress.

P1140891I’ll save the three knobs that came on them for another project another time.  I gave them these new knobs with a skeleton key design on them.  I ‘purposely’ positioned the keys facing opposite directions on the drawers.  Michael thought they should be facing ‘up and down’ and both the same.  I liked them better sideways and facing opposite to each other.  It doesn’t REALLY matter though as they can easily be loosened and positioned however the new owner prefers.


And as I’ve mentioned before, I like to paint the backsides on vintage items.  They usually use a cheap grade of wood that just doesn’t weather very well.  An extra minute of painting just makes it look ‘top notch’ all over.

P1140904It’s a nice ‘added touch’ to line the drawers with some pretty paper.  On these I used some vintage wall paper.  Old book pages, scrapbook paper, pretty wrapping paper, old maps . . . . anything will do.  Again, it only takes a couple of minutes to do, but really enhances the quality of the item.

P1140903I got these on Thursday, worked on them Saturday and Sunday and took them to Stars today!

P1140902I wasn’t entirely certain that I’d have room for them just yet.  But the bit Expo sale was this weekend, and Stars had a sale for that.  So I loaded them up in my car ‘just in case’.  If there hadn’t been room for them, I’d be driving by my storage garage on the way home anyhow, and could have dropped them off there until I needed them.

P1140901Turns out that I WAS able to make room in my booth for them after a bit of creative rearranging.

P1140900The other night stand I had, sold over the weekend.  These are $65.00 each.  (it’s always best to price things ‘individually’; that way if someone only wants to buy ONE, you don’t have to re-price and re-tag them.  And if they want both, it doesn’t really matter if there’s one or two price tags!



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6 CommentsLeave a comment

  1. Great job and I love the color. Will look great in someone’s bedroom.

  2. I really like the turqouise paint you use. What is the color name?

  3. I’ve written to you before and you were very helpful with a project i was working on and here I am again. I’ve been trying to use DIY chalk paint but I am amazed how quickly you get projects done with regular paint. (I still take forever with the chalk paint). Do you sand, prime and paint with your RL paint? Your projects look amazing!!!!

    • Firstly, I carefully select my project pieces so that they are not items that WILL take a long time to get done. I also use FOAM rollers (the small ones) whenever possible on the furniture I paint. I’ll use a brush on corers and crannies that can’t be reached by the roller, the roll the rest.

      I never sand AND prime; it’s either/or. This is where the exceptional coverage of the RL paint pays off. My time IS money, so if a product saves me time, it’s worth a little extra cost. I prefer to SAND whenever and as much as possible over using primer, just less cost. HOWEVER, on pieces that are not easy to sand (like chairs with lots of rungs!) primer is faster and easier. The purpose of priming or sanding is for the paint to adhere to a ‘not slick or shiney’ surface. I always use flat/matte paint so I do I do not sand between coats. But I have never worked with chalk paint; and I do believe that they recommend a LIGHT sanding between coats. For that reason alone, I probably would NOT use chalk paint. (with my damaged spine that is just too much hand sanding required!) The RL flat or matte finish paint looks just as ‘chalky’ to me!

      They DO have some gorgeous colors in the ASCP. Remember that you can get ANY paint mixed in ANY color simply by bringing a color sample to the paint store with you. I honestly do not ‘get’ the excitement over chalk paint, other than being able to actually USE an item to write on like a chalk board. Don’t they recommend a wax or varnish finish?? (seems I heard they do with chalk paint) As soon as you add ANY kind of top coat, your chalky finish is gone?!?!? I just don’t get it?!?!

      I hope this helps SOME!


      • You’re soooo helpful and kind to respond with your tips! It is recommended that you wax after chalk paint and to me that is hard work! (which I’m not at all opposed to…just sometimes it doesn’t look good to me) I also have lots of problems trying to get the distressing to look right. My daughter thinks there is an art to it and I guess I don’t have the touch. I think I will try your recommendations of just sanding and using RL paint. If this doesn’t work, I think I will go back to baking! That I know I can do!!! LOL

  4. I forgot to mention that I (almost) always do all my sanding with an orbital electric sander. Makes the work go MUCH faster. Even for my distressing, except little corners where the sander won’t reach. Yeah, I really can’t explain or TEACH how I distress. I can tell you WHAT I do, but how to know when it’s time to stop . . . I just ‘eyeball’ it. I have seen many distressing jobs that just look TOO fake. UG!! Gives me the shivers to think about how ‘forced’ they look, but it’s not something that I can really put my finger on. I just know what I like and what I don’t. But in general, most people don’t distress ENOUGH, in my opinion. Try an orbital sander and when you think it’s enough . . .go a little longer. (just one section of a piece) You can always paint over it again if you don’t like it! God luck.

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